![]() The J12 Diamond Tourbillon features a classic layout with the mainspring barrel located at 12 o’clock, while the tourbillon regulator is displayed in an aperture at six o’clock. As you’ll come to find, every aspect of the movement has been meticulously considered in the pursuit of finer aesthetics and thinness. Often framed as a virtue in modern design is the principle of form following, rather than determining, function, but there is much to be appreciated when engineering is critically rethought and furthermore optimized to achieve aesthetic goals.Īs with the Calibre 1, the exemplary architecture of the Calibre 5 is easy to appreciate, but what’s perhaps less obvious is the minute but significant steps taken to arrive at its beauty. The Calibre 3 even spawned a 3.1 version in the J.12 X-ray wherein the movement plate and bridges were made entirely from sapphire. They were a pair of skeletonized time-only form movements with equally considered and distinctive constructions characterized by circularity. Proving it is far more than a one-trick pony, Chanel soon unveiled the Calibres 2 and 3 in the Premiere Camelia Skeleton and the Boy.friend Skeleton respectively. The iconic codes of the French fashion house were skilfully woven into all aspects of the watch, from the details of the dial to the framework of the movement, creating an admirably cohesive timepiece few watchmakers can even approach. Equally impressive was its conceptual approach to design. When Chanel unveiled the Calibre 1 in the Monsieur de Chanel in 2016, it took many by surprise, not merely because it was Chanel’s first in-house movement, but because it was constructed with an exceptional level of refinement both in terms of its fundamental architecture and complication.
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